Day 13 – Escaping the monster

  • Foyers to Inverness
  • 34 kms

My two days of paddling on Loch Ness – a Friday, and the 13th day of my trip. Am I in for a bad time, or is that just pushing superstition too far?

The Foyers campsite was all I had hoped for – helpful staff, flat grass, a hot shower, and a friendly tent neighbour. Malcolm had been here in the glorious weather for several weeks, having travelled up from Cambridge on the sleeper train to Inverness and then by bus to Foyers.

I didn’t think I had that far to travel to get to Inverness today, so I opted for a leisurely start in the warm sunshine. This, combined with my extended lunch stop in Dores later in the day, resulted in a later arrival in Inverness than I had hoped.

Getting ready for my 2nd day on Loch Ness

I set off in high spirits, only to have them severely dented within minutes of leaving the shore… Nessie!

Paddling as hard as I can

The whole story of this incident can be read in Uncle Ritch meets Nessie

As I recovered from this incident, I next had to deal with two viking long boats veering down on me. As they got closer, I could see that it was just two fast-moving patriotic Canadian canoes.

I didn’t have long to chat as they sped past, but it looked like Arthur and his mates were in for a good weekend.

Yesterday afternoon, the yacht Tirozo had sailed past me again, and I knew they were mooring for the night at Castle Urquhart. As I drew level with the castle on the other side of the loch, I could see them pulling out of the bay with their distinctive black sails. They soon became a small speck in the distance. We had started the canal together, but it seemed likely they would get to the end before me.

Castle Urquhart on the west side of Loch Ness

My first and only stop for the day was at Dores. On my OS map, it is marked as having   a pub, but my map is not even close to being the latest edition. It seemed a good place to stop even if food wasn’t available. I got lucky. The pub is about to undergo renovation, but in the meantime, they have brought in pop-up food vans. This was their first official day of being open. I was treated to some excellent fried cod and salad in a wrap with fries on the side.

The Dores Inn Pop-Up

Dores is also where the Nessie Hunter hangs out. I didn’t go in and inform him of my recent close encounter. I’ll let him keep hunting.

Nessie Hunter

After more than an hour of indulgence, it was time to move on. It didn’t take long to reach the end of the loch and start on the narrow canal section into Inverness.

THAT’s a boathouse
Aboiding the Ness weir and fishermen

Above the Dochgarroch lock, I ran across Donald from Explore Highland, leading a stag do canoe trip. We all exited the canal above the loch at the same time, and I had the opportunity to get some useful tips from Donald about getting through Inverness and on to the next section of my trip to Nairn.

A stag do canoe trip

The last section of the canal between Dochgarroch and the Muirtown locks was full of gorse, broom, and bluebells. Many people were out walking, cycling, and running on the canal paths.

A purple haze of bluebells on the canal bank

I paddled for a while alongside a family in two canoes. They were just on the return half of their trip up to Dochgarroch lock. Their young girl was thrilled that her paddle was the same colour as my wee yellow kayak.

Above the Muirtown locks, I came across the familiar site of the yacht Tirozo that I’ve shared this canal journey with.

Tirozo… again!

As I am now below the locks, did I get to the end first? They will soon be off to Scandinavia while I’ll be sticking to the Scottish coast.

It took me a bit of walking up and down the sides of the canal below the locks to decide where to camp. The official guide suggests that a patch of grass on the west bank is the place to be, but it had a large group of youngsters playing football on it. When I investigated the east bank within the perimeter fence of the Scottish Canal office and marina, I came across Danny and a group of fellow boat owners sharing an evening meal at a picnic bench. They welcomed me to take up residence on the flat bit of grass next to them in the safety of the locked perimeter fence. I was much happier with this option and settled in for the night.

Comments

4 responses to “Day 13 – Escaping the monster”

  1. Ian Diaper avatar
    Ian Diaper

    I’m in awe, Ritch. As if paddling round the heart of Scotland wasn’t enough, you have time, energy, technology and wit to write and publish a fairy story (or was it?!)

    1. Ritchie avatar

      I’ve only got half a heart so far.

  2. Mike Russell avatar
    Mike Russell

    Ritchie, your wonderful daily diary reminds me very much of when I read Raynor Winn’s ‘The Salt Path”, the couple’s hike around part of the South West Coast Path……the chief difference being that (a) you are alone and not with Wendy, (b) you are kayaking rather than hiking, and (c) most importantly…….your weather is way better than they endured in the West Country!

    My, your witty script and wonderful photography merit a much wider circulation than you are currently enjoying. This trip is offering you the opportunity to exhibit all of your many skills. Your challenge is to arrive back at home before the weather changes back to something more normal for Scotland.

    One of my very first family holidays (in 1965) was staying in a caravan park in Corpach, on the shores of Loch Eil, a far cry from the town of Birkenhead in which I grew up. So I could relate well to your earlier diary comments covering the Corpach/Fort William area.

    Keep up the good work!

    Mike R

    1. Ritchie avatar

      Great to hear from you, Mike.

      There’s still a campsite on Loch Eil, Linnhe Lochside Holidays. Paul and I stayed there last year. It’s a few kilometres past Corpach. I knew I’d be able to get a shower easily on the canal, so chose to wild camp rather than put in extra paddle strokes.

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