Day 12 – The beautiful trees

• Laggan Locks to Foyers
• 35 kms

Looking back at the 60 odd photos I took today, I see that the vast majority feature trees. I just can’t resist getting the camera out when they light up in the sunshine. The east shores of Loch Oich and Loch Ness (so far, at least) have lovely natural woodlands. The west shores… not so much – more commercial pine.

There were two other tents where I camped at Laggan Locks, but as I set off at 9 am, I still hadn’t seen either of their occupants.

The tow path was on the other side of the canal from the campsite, so I started with a short paddle and then a portage past the loch. I also went past the moored Tirozo – a late start for them.

My first encounter of the day was with a couple in a double kayak. Their original intention was to paddle the canal from south to north but changed their plans with the wind forecast. They’d had an “exciting” time on Loch Ness with metre high waves in places. It was they who recommended the Foyers campsite at which I’m currently camped (very nice indeed).

I was soon on the narrow Loch Oich. Larger vessels have to stick to a buoyed channel in the middle, but I was able to explore further in the shallows.

After Loch Oich, there is a canal section with two single locks with simple portages that are well catered for with low pontoons and wide ramps well designed to allow kayaks to pass.

Another short paddle and I was upon Fort Augustus – the only settlement of significant size on the canal between Fort William and Inverness. I stopped here for something to eat and a few supplies. The town was bustling with tourists keen to get photos of boats traversing the staircase of five locks and the views up Loch Ness. Needless to say, there were a few cuddly Nessies available for sale.

There was an interesting yacht moored at the top of locks – Guppy. The original Guppy that Laura Dekker sailed solo around the world was wrecked by others’ carelessness soon after she completed the feat. This one is used to help and encourage youngsters to obtain sailing experience.

When I returned to my kayak to start my portage down the locks, the skipper of the Tirozo came over for a chat. They had caught up with me again but would be delayed by the lock transit. I commented on his use of sails on Loch Lochie, and he informed me that he’d also used them on the much narrower Loch Oich – very impressive.

I started up the west side of Loch Ness to avoid being side on to the waves at the shallow southern shore. At the first narrow point, I crossed over, away from the main road and over to the very remote, attractive, and steep sided east shore.

Although I was paddling into a steady F3, sometimes F4, I was able to get some shelter by staying close to the shore. It was also warmer here as the sun’s heat re-radiated off the steep slopes. It was a good three hour paddle up to Foyers, and I enjoyed every minute of it.

The camping opportunities were few and far between, but the only reasonable site was being made use of by a group of canoists. This was a guided trip of seven people with four canoes who, like the kayakers I met earlier, changed their plans to paddle from north to south. I was assured there was room for another tent, but I had already set my mind on the comforts of a commercial campsite.