Category: East Coast

  • Day 23 – The safe and wonderful haven of Collieston

    • Peterhead to Collieston
    • 28 kms

    Another sunny start to the day. I ate some breakfast and then packed up, trying hard to keep as much sand as possible where it belonged on the beach and not in my kayak. Only one person walked by before I left. His dog couldn’t resist an unexpected kayak trolley wheel to anoint with his scent.

    Looking north to Peterhead from my campsite
    Passing the bridge over the Ugie river
    Peterhead Harbour entrance and power station

    The offshore westerly breeze made for easy paddling past Peterhead and its busy harbour. I stopped at the north side of the harbour entrance to watch a pilot launch come out. I’d been monitoring VHF ch14 for local vessel movements and decided it best to request permission to cross the harbour entrance. I was asked to proceed with haste as there was an incoming vessel, but I got the impression they appreciated the courtesy of the request.

    Boddam Harbour
    Buchan Ness lighthouse

    After I passed Buchan Ness, the wind swung round to the southwest, where it remained for the remainder of the day. This slowed my progress even though the generally weak tidal flow was in my favour.

    A house of two halves
    Creels laid through this small channel
    One of many caves
    Approaching the Bullers of Buchan
    I see a grumpy face
    Rabie’s Haven
    Looking north from Rabie’s Haven
    Another arch
    Slains Castle

    After passing Slains Castle, I stopped for lunch below the golf course at Cruden Bay. Only a few hundred metres from where I’d had dinner last night.

    North towards Slains Castle over Cruden Bay
    Large tadpoles in stream by lunch spot

    The cliffs between Cruden Bay and Collieston were interesting, too, and full of birds. However, although the wind had dropped, the clapotis on this section was particularly active. I couldn’t risk taking the camera out.

    I arrived in Collieston in two minds on whether I should just take a short rest here and then continue on to Hackley Bay or call it a day here. There were children playing in the water and mothers looking on. After a chat with Jess and a short wander around, I decided that this idyllic spot would suit just fine. Jess clinched the deal with her very generous offer to make my dinner!

    Collieston
    Camping in Collieston

    I set up camp and then sat at a picnic table sorting photos and loading my GPS track to Strava. Jess brought me my dinner on a tray, and I chatted to her and her two delightful children about their life in Collieston and my trip around the heart of Scotland.

    Black-headed gull eyeing my dinner
    Collieston from above

    In the late evening, I took a walk to Hackley Bay through the Forvie Nature Reserve. On my return, I was greeted by a very enthusiastic border terrier and its owner doing a bit of gardening. He had been a Lighthouse Board helicopter pilot and yacht owner and therefore knew the Scottish coast intimately. He was interested in my journey and filled me in on some local history. Thomas Blake Glover, the “Scottish Samurai”, had once lived in Collieston.

    Hackley Bay
    Sun setting over Forvie Nature Reserve
    The end of a lovely day
  • Day 22 – A tame Rattray Head

    • Rosehearty to Peterhead
    • 32 kms

    I started the day with an excellent Eggs Stornoway (a Benedict with black pudding) at the Davron Hotel and ended it with a tasty Beefsteak pie at the Crudin Bay golf course. Not exactly rough living, and I won’t be losing any weight on this trip.

    The weather and tide couldn’t have been any better for taking on Rattray Head. There was a slight offshore southwesterly that had taken all the swell away, and I’d have the southerly flood tide with me to Rattray. If I timed it correctly, this would just be easing to slack water at Rattray Head itself.

    Rather than wheel the kayak back to the harbour, I set off from the beach
    Calm water to the east
    Kinnaird Head at Fraserburgh
    Fraserburgh town behind the harbour wall
    A fishing boat entering Fraserburgh harbour before I cross the entrance

    After Fraserburgh, I started to notice the effects of the current taking me onwards. At Cairnbulg Point, I was sped by the wreck of the Sovereign almost before I could get my camera out. I was doing 6 kph without paddling. At low water, this would be dry.

    Once round Cairnbulg Point and past Inverallochy, I could see the Rattray Lighthouse 10 kms in the distance. I was keeping a kilometre out to sea to be sure I was getting the benefit of the tidal flow, but as I got halfway across the wide sandy bay, I noticed a large rain shower approaching from the east and the wind began to freshen. I headed closer to the shore to reduce my exposure to wind blown chop.

    The wreck of the fishing boat, Sovereign, at Cairnbulg Point
    Behind me in a flash

    As I moved to the east, I expected my view of the gap between the lighthouse and the headland behind to increase. I was surprised to see it decreasing. Was I still being pushed out to sea, and was I going to be swept around the sea side of the lighthouse? It wasn’t until the headland aligned with the lighthouse that I realised the lighthouse was the further away of the two and that my expected transit was actually working in reverse.

    The rain shower passed to the south of me as I realised the headland was closer to me than the lighthouse
    The dunes on the headland
    The calm waters of Rattray Head
    Very little tidal flow at the base of the lighthouse
    Looking south to the gas terminal
    Gas terminal flare stacks
    Just a low burn

    As I approached Peterhead, I made the decision to stop early and set up camp in the dunes a few kilometres north of town, not far from the 10th tee of the Peterhead Golf Course’s furthest hole. Nobody but a few dog walkers walked this far north of town.

    Joyce, a long-time friend of my sister and the family, lives near Peterhead. She met me at the bridge over the Ugie and whisked me off to her golf course at Cruden Bay for an excellent dinner.

    Returning home after a night on the town