One Man And His Boat

Category: Clyde and Crinan Canal

  • Day 6 – Mister Chatty

    • Kilfinan Bay to Crinan
    • 26 kms

    From not seeing anyone yesterday, I was chatting with anyone who showed the least interest in engaging with me today:  the Scottish Canal’s man in the Ardrishaig Sea Lock office, two French men walking past as I portaged through Ardrishaig, Catherine the Christian Aid lady at lock 6, a lady swimming at the pond above lock 9, a local man sailing his model Laser dinghy between locks 9 and 10, two walkers from Inverness but now living in Cambrigeshire, and a guy from Glasgow getting onto a sit-on-top at Crinan. I’m sure I’ve missed a few others too.

    The morning 7 km paddle across Loch Fyne was a good way to start the day. Nothing but the seabirds to keep me company. Most ignored me, but a group of small young gulls (Kittiwakes maybe) made repeated flyovers to see if they could work out what I was. Three puffins sped by – the first I’ve seen on this trip. A couple more were hanging out on the water a kilometre from Ardrishaig.

    I landed my kayak on a pebble beach to the south of the canal entrance, pulled it up a ramp, and tied it to the railing.

    Unlike the Lowland Canals, I hadn’t done any research or planning for this one. I know it’s a common route for canoes and kayaks, and I registered my trip online. Other than that, this was a voyage of discovery.

    I walked the route to the kayak put in place above lock 4, refuelled myself and my battery power bank at the Rumblin’ Tum café, checked in with the canal staff at the Sea Lock office, and then returned to my kayak for the start of the first portage. The rest of the trip was a delight, best told with a few photos.

    On the way
    Above lock 4
    Paddling at last
    I’ll fit
    A thoughtful touch
    Water depth control
    Model Laser dinghy
    Beautiful colours
    Shades of green
    Final HARD pullout
    Crinan Bridge

    I finished the canal at Crinan Bridge, a quarter of a mile before Crinan, as it’s easier to get to the sea here. I then paddled up to Crinan, tied up at the bottom of a ramp, and got a much needed shower in the excellent facilities there. Unfortunately, I forgot to fill up my water bags and will have to nip back there tomorrow before heading north.

    A castle in my back yard.

  • Day 5 – On my own

    • North Bute to Kilfinan Bay
    • 35 kms

    The couple on the yacht moored across from my campsite took their dog ashore for a short walk and waved to me as they crossed in their small tender. Apart from that, and a few other waves from a distance, I haven’t communicated with anyone in the flesh all day.

    The tidal flow in the western kyle wouldn’t be in my favour till 11 am. However, the light southerly winds were forecast to freshen as the day progressed, so I decided it was best to get down to Ardlamont Point as quickly as possible. After that, I’d be heading north up Loch Fyne, so a fresh southerly would be helping me along.

    In the end, it was very easy going down to the point.

    The Maids of Bute overlooking the northern end of the western Kyle.
    All calm as I approached Tighnabruaich.
    A rather modest club house considering the size of the yachts moored here.
    Grey Herons are seen fishing on the shores everywhere I go.
    Tighnabruaich RNLI station.
    The Oystercatchers would always take flight as I approached.
    Selection of flowers seen at Ardlamont Point (especially for Fiona M).

    The wind did indeed freshen as I headed northwest from the point, and it gave rise to a wind blown chop on my beam. It was the first time this trip that I felt that I should have been wearing a cag. The little breaking tops would sometimes threaten my bib and spray deck defences, but as I turned north after 45 minutes it was just my t-shirt that was a little wet.

    The rest of the paddle up Loch Fyne was easy enough, but I feel my directional control with following wind and sea has been a little compromised by having the trolley on the back.

    An interesting boat heading down Loch Fyne. I could smell it for half an hour afterwards. I think it was using old tyres for fuel.
    My quietest campsite so far. Stream on one side, Loch Fyne on the other.

  • Day 4 – Traffic on the Clyde

    • Ardmore Point to North Bute
    • 43 kms

    It was taking me a little time to adjust to having so much stuff. It all went in the boat ok, but I hadn’t quite got familiar with where everything was. I felt like I was faffing a lot when getting ready this morning.

    I had my breakfast on the foreshore looking across the Clyde. I spotted the Waverley, the sea going paddle steamer, moored up behind a much less impressive cruise ship.

    Once on the water, I headed towards the “Sugar Boat”, the rusting remains of a boat wrecked on a sandbar 50 years ago. I’ve been round it before in a “Tail O’ The Bank” kayak race, but didn’t have time to look at it in any detail that time.

    Sugar Boat

    It was so calm today that I could have landed and taken a walk on its hull, but probably not wise considering the state of it.

    A windlass on the bow

    Before reaching the “Sugar Boat” I heard a radio message from the Waverley to say that it was heading out on sea trials. Great! An opportunity to get a better look at it. I wasn’t quite expecting to get as close as I did.

    The Waverley heading out past the cruise ship
    Away down the Clyde

    As I rounded the headland before Kilcreggan, I could see the Waverley again moored at the pier. Then, as I approached closer, it left the pier and sailed across my bow (I’m pretty sure the blast on its horn wasn’t targeted at me).

    Get out of my way!

    After that encounter, I was keeping a close look out and ear to the VHF to be sure I didn’t interfere with other vessels – especially the Dunoon ferries. I had the VHF on dual watch 12 (Clyde Navigation) and 16, but decided to switch to scanning all stations. The problem with this is you can’t tell which station a communication is on unless you’re looking at the radio.

    Temporary VHF positioning for getting past Dunoon.

    After Dunoon, the traffic dropped off, and the rest of the day was a lovely paddle with sunshine and light winds.

    My ideal retirement house.
    A seal getting bedded in on the ebbing tide.
    The Argyll Canoe Trail campsite at North Bute

  • Day 3 – End of the Lowland Canals

    • Kirkintilloch to Ardmore Point
    • 45 kms

    I was up early today as I had a long paddle planned and was a bit uncertain about how long the canal portages were going to take.

    Midday would be a good time to be at the end of the canal. It would allow me to take advantage of the last of the ebb on the Clyde and, more importantly, it would give Wendy time to get home for her German lesson.

    I wheeled the kayak back to the canal and was paddling again just before 6.30. My kayak was almost empty this time as Wendy was taking most of my gear to Bowling by car.

    Although the locks presented a number of challenges, having an empty kayak made all the difference. I could lower it down steep grassy banks or pull it up over concrete walls. I had brought along the plastic base from an old kari-tek trolley to use between wall and kayak that allowed the kayak to slide easily. It worked well on the two occasions I used it today.

    I completed the trip with just six portages, rather than the eleven I had feared. I managed to squeeze under all of the low bridges. One involved hanging on to the girders below the bridge and tipping my kayak on its side so that I could get my torso under – anything to avoid another exit.

    Maryhill locks. Just one railing on the ramp makes all the difference for getting the kayak turned.
    Getting back on the canal after the Maryhill locks.
    No pontoon at all at the Dalmuir drop lock.
    One of three low bridges that I could just squeeze under.
    No ramp! I had to jump from pontoon to canal verge and then pull the kayak up the bank.

    At Bowling, Wendy conjured up yet another excellent picnic lunch (courtesy of M&S), which we ate by the side of lock 38. The kayak was then loaded up in time for me to catch the last of the ebb tide. This, along with a slight easterly breeze, made for easy paddling down as far as Port Glasgow.

    Eventually, after a few ventures into shallow sand banks, I was able to cut north over to my final destination at Ardmore Point on the north bank of the Clyde.

    The Clyde at Bowling
    Dumbarton Rock and Castle
    Spreading my stuff about.
    I have the chance to upgrade to an orange boat.