Category: Caledonian Canal

• Foyers to Inverness
• 34 kms

My two days of paddling on Loch Ness – a Friday, and the 13th day of my trip. Am I in for a bad time, or is that just pushing superstition too far?

The Foyers campsite was all I had hoped for – helpful staff, flat grass, a hot shower, and a friendly tent neighbour. Malcolm had been here in the glorious weather for several weeks, having travelled up from Cambridge on the sleeper train to Inverness and then by bus to Foyers.

I didn’t think I had that far to travel to get to Inverness today, so I opted for a leisurely start in the warm sunshine. This, combined with my extended lunch stop in Dores later in the day, resulted in a later arrival in Inverness than I had hoped.

I set off in high spirits, only to have them severely dented within minutes of leaving the shore… Nessie!

The whole story of this incident can be read in Uncle Ritch meets Nessie

As I recovered from this incident, I next had to deal with two viking long boats veering down on me. As they got closer, I could see that it was just two fast-moving patriotic Canadian canoes.

I didn’t have long to chat as they sped past, but it looked like Arthur and his mates were in for a good weekend.

Yesterday afternoon, the yacht Tirozo had sailed past me again, and I knew they were mooring for the night at Castle Urquhart. As I drew level with the castle on the other side of the loch, I could see them pulling out of the bay with their distinctive black sails. They soon became a small speck in the distance. We had started the canal together, but it seemed likely they would get to the end before me.

My first and only stop for the day was at Dores. On my OS map, it is marked as having   a pub, but my map is not even close to being the latest edition. It seemed a good place to stop even if food wasn’t available. I got lucky. The pub is about to undergo renovation, but in the meantime, they have brought in pop-up food vans. This was their first official day of being open. I was treated to some excellent fried cod and salad in a wrap with fries on the side.

Dores is also where the Nessie Hunter hangs out. I didn’t go in and inform him of my recent close encounter. I’ll let him keep hunting.

After more than an hour of indulgence, it was time to move on. It didn’t take long to reach the end of the loch and start on the narrow canal section into Inverness.

Above the Dochgarroch lock, I ran across Donald from Explore Highland, leading a stag do canoe trip. We all exited the canal above the loch at the same time, and I had the opportunity to get some useful tips from Donald about getting through Inverness and on to the next section of my trip to Nairn.

The last section of the canal between Dochgarroch and the Muirtown locks was full of gorse, broom, and bluebells. Many people were out walking, cycling, and running on the canal paths.

I paddled for a while alongside a family in two canoes. They were just on the return half of their trip up to Dochgarroch lock. Their young girl was thrilled that her paddle was the same colour as my wee yellow kayak.

Above the Muirtown locks, I came across the familiar site of the yacht Tirozo that I’ve shared this canal journey with.

As I am now below the locks, did I get to the end first? They will soon be off to Scandinavia while I’ll be sticking to the Scottish coast.

It took me a bit of walking up and down the sides of the canal below the locks to decide where to camp. The official guide suggests that a patch of grass on the west bank is the place to be, but it had a large group of youngsters playing football on it. When I investigated the east bank within the perimeter fence of the Scottish Canal office and marina, I came across Danny and a group of fellow boat owners sharing an evening meal at a picnic bench. They welcomed me to take up residence on the flat bit of grass next to them in the safety of the locked perimeter fence. I was much happier with this option and settled in for the night.

• Laggan Locks to Foyers
• 35 kms

Looking back at the 60 odd photos I took today, I see that the vast majority feature trees. I just can’t resist getting the camera out when they light up in the sunshine. The east shores of Loch Oich and Loch Ness (so far, at least) have lovely natural woodlands. The west shores… not so much – more commercial pine.

There were two other tents where I camped at Laggan Locks, but as I set off at 9 am, I still hadn’t seen either of their occupants.

The tow path was on the other side of the canal from the campsite, so I started with a short paddle and then a portage past the loch. I also went past the moored Tirozo – a late start for them.

My first encounter of the day was with a couple in a double kayak. Their original intention was to paddle the canal from south to north but changed their plans with the wind forecast. They’d had an “exciting” time on Loch Ness with metre high waves in places. It was they who recommended the Foyers campsite at which I’m currently camped (very nice indeed).

I was soon on the narrow Loch Oich. Larger vessels have to stick to a buoyed channel in the middle, but I was able to explore further in the shallows.

After Loch Oich, there is a canal section with two single locks with simple portages that are well catered for with low pontoons and wide ramps well designed to allow kayaks to pass.

Another short paddle and I was upon Fort Augustus – the only settlement of significant size on the canal between Fort William and Inverness. I stopped here for something to eat and a few supplies. The town was bustling with tourists keen to get photos of boats traversing the staircase of five locks and the views up Loch Ness. Needless to say, there were a few cuddly Nessies available for sale.

There was an interesting yacht moored at the top of locks – Guppy. The original Guppy that Laura Dekker sailed solo around the world was wrecked by others’ carelessness soon after she completed the feat. This one is used to help and encourage youngsters to obtain sailing experience.

When I returned to my kayak to start my portage down the locks, the skipper of the Tirozo came over for a chat. They had caught up with me again but would be delayed by the lock transit. I commented on his use of sails on Loch Lochie, and he informed me that he’d also used them on the much narrower Loch Oich – very impressive.

I started up the west side of Loch Ness to avoid being side on to the waves at the shallow southern shore. At the first narrow point, I crossed over, away from the main road and over to the very remote, attractive, and steep sided east shore.

Although I was paddling into a steady F3, sometimes F4, I was able to get some shelter by staying close to the shore. It was also warmer here as the sun’s heat re-radiated off the steep slopes. It was a good three hour paddle up to Foyers, and I enjoyed every minute of it.

The camping opportunities were few and far between, but the only reasonable site was being made use of by a group of canoists. This was a guided trip of seven people with four canoes who, like the kayakers I met earlier, changed their plans to paddle from north to south. I was assured there was room for another tent, but I had already set my mind on the comforts of a commercial campsite.

• Corpach to Laggan Locks
• 32 kms

The dawn chorus was a mixture between the songbirds of the oak woods in which I camped and the geese and sea birds from the small island a few hundred metres away. I lay in my sleeping bag until the sun was up and I could feel the warmth.

It was a short paddle across to the entrance to the canal. I left my kayak at the bottom of the slip at the adjacent marina and walked up to request permission to use it.

Brian, in the marina office, was surprised by my entrance as he hadn’t seen any boat approach. He invited me in, despite my wet feet, and was happy to tell me all about the Corpach Community Marina that had been built from scratch only three years ago. There was no charge for my kayak, but a polite request to make a donation to the RNLI. As a long-time supporter and offshore member of the RNLI, I was only too happy to oblige.

I pulled the kayak up the slip, and Brian took a photo to be added to the marina socials.

By this time, the marina coffee shop had opened. I treated myself to the full Scottish breakfast, which I ate outside while watching the French crew of the yacht Tirozo organise their supplies. The yacht was on a nine month Nordic Odyssey with 12 other yachts arranged by GLY Rally.

I trundled my kayak on its trolley past all this action on the first few locks and then got a short paddle in before the bigger portage of the Neptune’s Staircase.

On the way up, I met Alex and asked him if he’d mind taking a short video of my efforts. He was happy to do so, and he accompanied me to the top of the staircase. He’d worked as a commercial fisherman and then in the north sea and further afield on an oil rig maintenance vessel. He now lives on the Moray Coast, so there’s an opportunity for our paths to cross again in about a week’s time.

The lovely coconutty aroma of the gorse was often strong as I paddled on the more sheltered sections. I associate this with Scottish hillside golf courses (the Braid Hills in Edinburgh for one) and the often fruitless search for a lost golf ball after a wayward drive. And also with my dad, though more often than not, it would be my ball we were searching for rather than his. I felt tears on my cheeks for a few moments as I paddled on – must be the north easterly winds.

I paddled this section of the canal last year with Paul, so when I got to the two locks and swing bridge at Gairlochy, I knew what to expect.

The canoe trail is clearly marked as going through this gate with a lock. But unless I missed the memo with the combination code when I registered my trip, there was some change to the route that had not yet been resolved.

One alternative option would have been to go over the swing bridge and launch from a pontoon on the other side of the canal. Unfortunately, the swing bridge currently had a hydraulic problem and was stuck in the closed to vehicular traffic position.

I therefore ended up doing the same thing as last year.

Only Loch Lochy lay between me and my camping spot for the night. A simple paddle of about 16 kilometres. The wind was coming straight down the loch, and it was difficult to tell if one side would provide more shelter over the other. I opted for the west side as it had the quieter road to paddle beside.

The yacht Tirozo, which I had left behind in the locks, passed me a few kilometres up the loch. It was good to see it in full sail, tacking its way up the loch. The other yachts that passed were just motoring down the middle.

The Tirozo was on a starboard tack heading towards the western shore when it passed me. When it was half  kilometre ahead, it did what I considered a very slow and poorly executed manoeuvre across to the port tack. I heard later from the two guys I was about to meet on shore that there was much shouting to be heard aboard the yacht at this time. I suspect there was an abrupt change in water depth they hadn’t anticipated that led to this hurriedly executed manoeuvre.

I went ashore to have a bite to eat and landed on a nice beach where a couple of guys with four dogs were camping and fishing. The dogs were a little wary of this strange object arriving from the sea but soon settled down and back playing ball with their humans again.

I didn’t stop again before arriving at Laggan Locks, where I could camp at an approved canoe and hiking trail site with toilets and showers.